Hello!
Today is our Fifth day of the Beginner Sock Knitting Class for Toe-Up Socks!
Every day for the next week I'll be sharing a tutorial filled with the how's and why's of constructing a sock from the toes through the cuffs. At the end of this week-long class I'll provide you with the Basic Toe-Up Sock pattern (with short-row heel) that I've used when filming the lessons so that you can cast-on a set for yourself or a loved one.
If you were hoping to learn how to knit socks from the cuff-down, I've got you covered. I released the free sock class earlier this month for my Basic Cuff-Down Socks (with a heel flap). That class walked you through the construction of the sock and was followed up with the release of the free pattern which you can now download from my pattern shop (kids sizing or adult sizing).
Today we'll be learning:
I've posted the video below along with a few notes and all the links you might need. If you have any questions, you can always email me directly: shaina@yumiyarns.com
Have fun & happy knitting!
Shaina ^_^
PS: The yarn featured in this tutorial is from from Suburban Stitcher in the Sea Smoke colorway. Suburban Stitcher is the featured indie dyer in January for the 2021 Indie Sock-a-Long, she generously provided yarn support for the January Socks and all of the Beginner Sock Knitting Classes being offered on YumiYarns.com in the month of January. You can find all of her beautiful colorways and bases on her site: SuburbanStitcher.com
Other Lessons in this Series:
Notes and Resources:
You can join the 2021 Indie Sock-a-Long for just $2 through the end of January, 2021!
Remember to sign-up for my newsletter to have the free Toe-up Sock pattern (in 12 sizes) delivered to your inbox as soon as it's released on January 27, 2021.
The Difference Between the Toe & the Heel
The toe has a more rounded and sloped angle thanks to the first few rounds of the toe being increased more quickly than the rest of the toe. (We increased every round at first and then increase every other round for the rest of the toe.)
The heel has a more direct angle because the short rows use the same rate of decrease/increase for the duration of the heel. You end up with a sharper line in the heel, but because of the actual shape of a human foot it will mold to your foot just fine. You can do fancy shaping here if you want, but it isn't really needed thanks to the elasticity of the wool.
Knitting in Ends Video Tutorial
If you're needing a bit more info about how to weave in your ends while knitting, I've got a Video Tutorial that might be useful.
Avoiding Holes in the Corners
Need a refresher on how we solved the eternal problem of holes in the corner of your heels? The video below starts right at the point when I'm discussing this fun technique so it's easy for you to reference back to. (It starts at 8:45)
Written Instructions:
Step 1: Pick-up all the slipped stitches along the side of your heel flap. Don't start knitting your instep stitches, yet.
Step 2: Find the stitch 3 rows down from the stitch closest to the tip of your Left Needle.
Step 3: Using your Right Needle, pick up the left leg of the stitch to the right of the one you found in Step 2 & pick up the right leg of the stitch you found in Step 2.
Step 4: Correctly orient the 2 stitches that you've just picked-up onto your Left Needle. Knit them together (or work a ssk if you want it to slant the other direction).
Step 5: Slip the new stitch back to the left needle and knit this new stitch together with the next stitch to avoid having an extra stitch at each corner.
How to Tell if Stitches are Twisted
When you look at the stitch as it's sitting on the needle, the left leg of the stitch should be facing towards the back (away from you) and the right leg should be facing towards the front (nearest you).
How to Measure the Sock Leg
When measuring your leg length, lay the sock out flat on a table & measure from the bottom of the heel to where your needles currently are in the project. Don't lay the sock on a squishy surface like you leg or the couch cushion because this can distort the fabric and give you an incorrect measurement.
When to Stop Knitting the Leg
The leg of your sock is done whenever you want it to be. Most sock patterns will tell you how long to knit your leg so just follow the pattern if you like the sock as pictured in the pattern... or make the sock as long as you like, they're your socks & you can make them longer or shorter just by adding more rows and yarn. I've listed 3 common leg lengths below and things to keep in mind with each.
Ankle Socks
These are the quickest size to knit and use the least amount of yarn because there isn't much leg to knit at all. Make sure you still add a cuff and at least 1" / 2.5 cm of either stockinette or patterned leg before you start your heels otherwise the socks will slip off in your shoes. (Ask me how I know.)
Mid-Calf Socks
This is your standard sock leg used in patterns. It works well to show off stitch patterns, hits right below your calves, looks great with boots/leggings, & works for men and women nicely. If you don't want to keep a measuring tape handy, you can just knit the leg of your sock the same length as the foot then add your ribbing.
Knee Socks
These take the longest to knit & require lots more yarn than you would expect. You have to include some sort of leg shaping to accommodate the increases and decreases in the width of your legs thanks to your calf muscles otherwise your socks won't fit correctly.
That's it!
Next up, we'll start the Cuff! I'll cover that in more detail in tomorrow's lesson. See you then!
More Sock Patterns:
$5.99 USD
(Linked to the YumiYarns shop)
Free!
(Linked to the YumiYarns shop)
$2.00 USD
(Linked to the YumiYarns shop)
Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. These don't cost you any extra money, but if you make a purchase after clicking through one of my links I'll make a small profit from the sale & you will be helping my business. Thank you for your support!
Comentários